I am so super excited to share my latest make with you! When I first saw the tester call for this one I was at the library browsing Facebook whilst my children were immersed in some books and deciding which they would like to check out for at home. Perhaps not the best place to let out an audible gasp and "WOW" exclamation!! My joy was shared by many of the other seamstresses in the tester pool as several of us have been begging Kennis, the designer behind Itch to Stitch, to bring out a coat pattern for a couple of years now. Although not a coat, The ENVIGADO is a fantastic outer layer which will be perfect for Spring, late Summer evenings and Autumnal walks on its own and as an extra layer under a coat for the colder climates in Winter.
Don't think you are a gilet/vest/body warmer kind of girl? I didn't either but I have worn mine most days since I finished (and even a couple before it was fully finished!) it! I literally LOVE everything about it, have received several compliments on it and even better that it goes with around 90% of my existing wardrobe!
So, onto some of the details. The Envigado is an unlined, zip up, princess seamed, sleeveless jacket with an optional hood.
It includes patch pockets and pocket flaps, a drawstring casing at the waist and a front flap to cover up the zip. Although these features are not marked as optional in the pattern instructions, any or all could be left off for a simpler jacket.
Hardware wise a long separating zipper is the only essential, however, I believe the optional additional hardware of metal snaps and cord ends really finish this jacket and take it from nice to AMAZING!
The same goes with the inside of the jacket, this is an unlined jacket and the seams can be finished in any method of your choice (let's face it, you're the only one likely to see the inside!) but to really add a professional touch, use the optional Hong Kong method linked in the pattern. It takes extra time but really will help it become a long lasting durable addition to your wardrobe.
Sizing wise, this pattern has the same full US 00-20 (UK 4-24) size range as we've come to know and also includes different pattern pieces for sewing cup sizes A-DD (remember this is different to bra cups being calculated by working out the difference in your over and full bust measurements). It is drafted for 5'6" height but includes lengthen/shorten lines and full instructions on using them and blending between sizes for your best fit. Per my measurements, I made the 2C blended out to 4 hips (thanks Christmas!) straight per the pattern with no adjustments.
Lets talk fabric! I used a beautiful medium weight fabric from Barry's of Norwich at my local market. Unfortunately, the only information on the label was "mixed fibres" but it seems to be a cotton/poly evenly woven fabric made with 4 threads, possibly a canvas, duck or drill type? Whatever it is, it's nice and stable and holds it shape brilliantly making it the perfect choice here.
I used a YKK open end metal tooth zip from John Lewis, Prym 14mm anorak snaps, 10mm eyelets and metal cord ends from my local fabric shop, Anglian Fashion Fabrics.
Setting the snaps takes a little bit of practice but I've found the Prym Vario Love pliers (I got mine from Little T's Haberdashery) give the most consistent results for me whilst being a great quality which last the test of time well. I did also buy some silver spring toggles to go onto the waist cording but because I decided to make my own waist cording using the same fabric as the rest of the vest, they didn't fit. I am not too sad about this as I don't think they would add anything more to the overall look.
My Top Tips for sewing the Envigado!
1 - When sewing this jacket, I really recommend using tailors tacks for markings such as the pocket and waist casing placements as by the time you have pressed all the seams and steps before you get to this, most other types of marking have long gone!
2 - Use (or invest in) a blind hem foot to help get your topstitching straight and even. You can also use this foot for "stitching in the ditch" so it's definitely worth the few pounds price tag.
3 - Take your time trimming, grading and pressing every seam. It really does help get the professional finish without bulky, twisted or buckled seams.
As you can see, I've been wearing this a LOT, these photos are shown with a Lisbon, Busan and Uvitas (with add-ons!) underneath but I've also worn it with my Montana, Nottingham, Arenal and Hepburn tops! All beautiful Itch to Stitch patterns which are well loved in my wardrobe. Let me know what you'll wear yours with!
The Envigado is on release sale for just $9.60 (£7.25) until midnight 5th February (Central time) only!
AND don't forget the permanent 'Buy More Save More' discount automatically applied at checkout...why treat yourself to a nice top or jeans pattern to go with your fantastic new jacket!?
Affiliate links are included throughout this post marked with GREEN TEXT it costs you nothing extra but means I get a few cents if you buy the pattern after clicking through. I would love it if you could use them if this post has inspired you but feel free to navigate there yourself if you prefer! All opinions expressed on my blog are entirely my own. Thanks, Sarah
Hi! I'm Sarah and I live with my 2 boys and my Husband in East Anglia, UK. I enjoy sewing for my family and it is my aim to have a completely MeMade wardrobe for us all!